THE POWERFUL SUITS THROUGH TIMES
There are many articles that keep on mentioning “powerful suits”. I thought it was strange, did they translate the word “powerful suit”? It was a business suit that hit the throne in the 1980s, with broad shoulders and tough lines. It suits tall, muscular adults – the fad of those years was the muscular type […]
are many articles that keep on mentioning “powerful suits”. I thought
it was strange, did they translate the word “powerful suit”? It was a
business suit that hit the throne in the 1980s, with broad shoulders and tough
lines. It suits tall, muscular adults – the fad of those years was the muscular
type of action guy like Arnold Schwarzenegger. It has a bit of a power behind
it, but it’s not the kind of God Father’s power that posts often attach photos.
The coolest photos are when he’s leaning back or sitting on an armchair, a
confident comfort of a shark obsessing over space.
The time in “God Father”
part one is about the 1950s, 1960s and the real-life time when the movie is
shown in 1972. Around those time points, fashion is not so different. The
characters in the movie mostly wear the “Ivy League sack suit”.
Sack cut is an
easy-to-mass sewing style, very convenient in the hustle and bustle of
industrial society and only pays attention to the usability of the 1950s. As
the name implies, “sacks”, people cut the front and back very quickly
without calculating chest or waist. The shirt looked straight down from the
shoulders to the tail. And it usually does not have a tail cut – also for the
sake of simplifying production; and somewhat close to the sport coat – suitable
for standing sitting, active. This design helps the wearer can comfortably
exercise all day, whether working or diplomatic relations.
Ivy League – the term
referring to the group of America’s oldest and most elite private university,
is also the inspiration for many later fashion styles. The “Ivy
League” characteristic in clothing is also an added “student”
and “comfort” quality. The coat has a slight reduction of “traditional”
buttons, which will usually be 3-to-2, which means 3 buttons, but 1 button is
almost hidden on the back of the lapel already, so practically only 2 buttons .
There are also other costumes like loafer shoes and sweaters …
In general, among the
boring industrial suits, a tuxedo will solve a significant problem. Due to the
solemn design with extended chest and big lapel peak (lapel), the sack becomes
The characteristics of
the American suit style as many people point out are: no waist line at the
front, no or only one tail cut, relaxed comfort … actually all from the
origin of the sack suit.
The Sack suit is almost
extinct today. Say “almost” because there are people who like to
create their own style or restore ancient clothing – they will find a way to
preserve it. Of course, with a lot of emphasis, it is closer to the aesthetic eye
It can be said that in
the strange years of the 20th century, people followed the surprising pattern.
Partly because of the mass production mindset to meet the profit calculation,
and customers are also not willing to spend a lot of money and time on individual
products. So suddenly one day we saw all the pants reach armpits high or all of
the pants were flared. Today, in the 21st century, the psychology of the crowd
is actually no different, but the production structure has been much more
diverse, the craftsmen, handmade and talented tailors have survived by
profession, and the voice of personalities and personal styles are much
Talk about the today’s
“God Father” – the old US presidents and billionaires prefer to wear
a continetal suit. Not just Trump.
Continental can be
considered the sewing style of Italian and French style. This type of garment
produces shirts that look “relieved”. Calculating chest and waist,
creating hourglass watches, not thick chest padding, round shoulders hugging,
shoulder-assembling style, it doesn’t matter much: spalla camicia, rollino …
whatever you wear.
Over the years, with
historical nostalgia, people nowadays standardize American style into the
following basic things: the front body does not have a line of waistline, in addition,
the shoulders of the shirt are usually round and the British shoulder pad is
thinner; gorge line and lowered collar (gorge line); and loose shirt shape and
Which suit do you think
is the “most powerful”? The most powerful thinking is when we understand
ourselves. Is it uplifting when I think of the Buddhist teaching “true
You need to understand
yourself, your body, your face and your style – to make a request for a tailor
to help them create a piece of artwork.
Wishing you wisdom.
Source: Mann up