The construction of a Canali jacket
is a journey rich in details and gestures. A journey planned with careful eyes
and movements guided by great awareness, in which the dimension of time follows
its own rules.
Care, attention and consideration are the
basis of the whole process of creating a garment, a work of precision divided
into three large acts performed with their fingertips.
Act one: the material
The jacket is a living object, it breathes and adapts to
the environment and weather conditions. The raw material has unique
characteristics and comes from the processing of the best fibers available on
the market, processed with accuracy and transformed into fine fabrics that
Canali selects exclusively from the best wool mills in the world.
It is through the choice of fabric, pattern and color
that the definition of the character of a jacket begins. Because the fabric
represents the first chapter of the story that every jacket, when worn, tells.
Just like people who stand out for their charisma, inventiveness, and passion,
to the point of becoming capable leaders, the fabric in the jacket symbolizes
the set of characteristics that make it special and unique.
Act two: the creation
Each portion of fabric, which is cut and prepared to be
processed, is entrusted to the hands, precise hands, which have to perform a
part of the long process that culminates in the finished jacket with care and
sensitivity. It is a great puzzle recreated through a series of small steps
where many different parts take shape and join together: the front, the sleeves
and collars, the hips, the back, the lapel facing with the inner pockets, the
lining.
Each component is added to the other, in a process that
in some models accounts up to 200 steps. A sum whose final value is much higher
than that of single elements.
The construction of a jacket starts from its front.
First, a reinforcement is created, to give substance and shape to the skeleton
that will support the garment.
Then the pockets enter the scene, the shape is outlined,
one or more layers are added to give them support, then the lining is applied.
Then the pockets are sewn and shaped through ironing, then stitched to give
harmony and embellish the seams, and finally applied to the jacket.
The tacking of the front part of the jacket is a
fundamental step because inside is the lapel facing, a part composed of several
layers that support the front and keep it “in shape.” This is a distinctive
feature of a Canali sartorial jacket, which is still made by assembling
different parts one by one, as they are joined together at the seams. In this
way, the jacket has the necessary structure to accompany the movements of the
body, always remaining impeccable.
In the end, the last protagonist of the front enters the scene,
the element that perhaps most of all encloses the character and style of the
jacket: the lapel. Its shape is built through a set of seams that define the
harmonious line, determine the lapel and movement, and allow it to adhere to
the canvas.
After completing the front, it is time for the hips and
back, and as for the front, these components are first basted with seams that
have the task of joining the various parts, then they are lined, sewn together,
shaped through ironing and finished through stitching.
Now the jacket is composed of almost all its main
elements, only one step is missing to complete the garment: sewing the sleeves.
A passage in which the craftsman’s skill is able to
create a three-dimensional sleeve from a two-dimensional fabric. This happens
thanks to the looseness, a set of curled seams, which have the task of giving
mobility and elasticity to the movement of the entire sleeve.
A skill achieved through years of experience, to acquire
the ability and the right sensitivity in distributing a fabric’s looseness. The
result is a sleeve with soft and clean lines that offers an extremely
comfortable fit.
Act three: the final test
The jacket, in its entirety, is now almost finished.
The last ironing, unlike the previous phases in which
ironing serves to give a precise shape and structure, aims to restore harmony
to the fabric’s fibers, and to define the lines of the garment that is now
ready for the final test.
This last phase is performed accurately, manually. This
is the moment when it is verified that the whole process has been carried out
correctly. For each garment, length, sizes and measurements are checked.
The geometry of the textures, the integrity of the fabric
and the execution of the processing are examined.
The hands of those who know every inch, every seam, but
also the attentive eyes of those who have the ability to find every little
imperfection deal with this important step.
The long job of creating a jacket is now complete. The
three-act opera has concluded, but it is not yet time for the curtain to drop.
The jacket is now ready to be worn, to find its leading actor, and to start telling its story.
Canali Vietnam:
63 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Ward, Hanoi
Tel:024.32011592
