A suit is a big-ticket item that requires a fair amount of
knowledge before you commit to buying. Like a car, it’s a significant expense
(and a necessary one, trust us), and you wouldn’t head into a showroom at a car
dealer without doing your research, would you? Though a suit can’t physically
take you places the way a car does, a suit is a means of conveyance—an
alternate means of transportation, if you will. It gets you into the corner
office, on a second date and maybe even down the aisle. (Or, if all goes
according to plan, all three.) There’s a lot riding on this purchase, so you
want to be armed with the facts. Lapel types, overall sizing, button placement
and vent style—there are many features to consider. That’s why we’ve put
together a guide of the things you need to know before you take the leap.
Start with Your Size
The first thing that
will jump out to you when you hit the racks is color or pattern. But as any
tailor will tell you, it’s the way the suit fits that matters
most, so keep your eye on the prize. Suits are sized by combining your jacket
measurement with a size category. They are either Short, Regular, Long or Extra
Long. Broken down by height, this is how it goes:
•Short – up to 5’9″
•Regular – 5’10” to 6’0″
•Long – 6’1″ to 6’4″
•Extra Long 6’4″ and up
These categories
determine the length of the arms and the jacket body itself.
Your jacket
measurement is taken by measuring the thickest part of your chest under your
arms. Or you can usually take your waist size and add six
inches (unless you’ve never skipped chest day at the gym).
Whichever measurement is largest is the one you should use. So, if your chest
measurement is 40, your waist is 33 and you’re 5’10”, you’re likely a 40
Regular. But each suit fits differently, which is why trying them on is so
important.
Beware of the salesperson who tries to tell
you they can shorten a 40 Long to fit you. Don’t believe him. While the sleeves
can be shortened, and the waist taken in a little bit, there is no amount of
work that can be done to get the proportions right on the body of the jacket.
The All-Important Shoulders
When trying on your
suit, the perfect fit relies on a top-down approach. The fit in your shoulders
is the most critical aspect. If your jacket doesn’t fit here, the proportions
of the suit will be off everywhere. So, getting this right is essential.
When you try on a suit
jacket, there is one simple rule: Know your lines. Using the
tri-mirror in the fitting room, scan your upper back. You’re looking for any
exaggerated horizontal or vertical lines in the fabric. If you see horizontal
lines, your jacket is too tight. Go up a size. If vertical lines are showing,
your jacket is too big. Go down a size.
Next, look at yourself straight on. Shoulders
should fit naturally and there should be no overhang of the seam where your
shoulder ends—that means it’s too large—and no pulling in the fabric—that means
it’s too small. You should only have a smooth, sharp line extending down from
the seam to your cuff.
Your jacket
collar should sit flat against your dress shirt collar. It should also reveal
one half inch of your dress shirt collar in the back. (Overcoats are made to
cover everything; your suit jacket is not.) This is something you can get a
look at in the tri-mirror as well.
Simply said,
your lapels should always lie flat, no exceptions. If they pucker outward—even
slightly—when your jacket is buttoned, then it is too small. You don’t want to
cram yourself into a jacket. Sure, you can leave a jacket unbuttoned to reduce
the effect but it is not worth it, ultimately. And while we’re at it, most
suit jackets feature a standard notch where the lapel meets the collar. This
style is called a notch lapel and is best when buying your first suit
especially. Peak lapels, however, extend to a point towards the shoulders and
are more often seen in formal tuxedo jackets.
The Buttons
Your jacket should
button without pulling. If you need to breathe in when buttoning it, you’re
going to need to size up—makes sense, right? If it’s too loose and you can fit
more than your fist in the open space, you should consider taking in the waist.
(For those blessed with athletic builds, this is a fairly common alteration.)
As a good rule of thumb, the top button of a two-button jacket (or middle
button on a three-button) should not extend below your navel.
The Cuffs
A suit jacket is made
to fit shorter than any other jacket you wear, so naturally the sleeves will be
shorter. That means your cuff should end right around the wristbone below your
thumb. You should endeavor to have about a half-inch of your dress shirt
showing.
The Bottom of the Jacket
Although this can change a little bit as
different style trends come and go, your jacket should end just after your rear
does. Suit jackets come in two different styles—center vent or side vents.
“Vents” are the slits in the back of the jacket at the bottom. There may be one
in the middle or one on each side. Originally, a center vent accommodated men
on horseback, allowing coattails to fall neatly on each side of the rider.
Center vents are considered standard in American tailoring today, whereas side
vents are considered a bit more fashion forward.
The Trousers
Okay, let’s revisit
those suit sizes again. With trousers, the Short, Regular, Long and Extra Long
are going to determine how much length is in the leg as well as the rise. And,
with most suits, you typically don’t have a choice between plain or pleated
trousers; the suit will come with one or the other. Pleats are slightly more
formal than flat front, and, if you’re a bigger guy in the midsection, they
offer more room—and comfort. As far as the fit at your waist goes, if you see
any horizontal lines, the fabric is pulling and your pants are too tight. Suit
trousers can be let out a fair amount, though, so speak with your tailor before
you size up.
How long should your trousers be? Again, it’s
a matter of personal preference. The standard is to ask for a one-inch break,
which means your pants will end one inch above the beginning of your shoe’s
sole. This causes a slight break in your pants as they crease. If your crease
remains razor straight when you’re standing up, your pants are too short for
the traditional crowd. Conversely, if the fabric is pooling at the top of your
shoe, or if you’re stepping on it, your pants are too long.
There are three types
of breaks to consider. The full break is the longest and best suited for
wide-leg trousers. A half-break is the standard and the best place in which to
start if you are uncertain. Asking for no break is a bold choice (be prepared
to bear those bare ankles), but you must also remember to ask that the trousers
be tapered so they lay correctly. No breaks are fashion forward and better
suited to short and/or slim guys.
A Note on Cuffs: Your tailor may also ask whether you want a
cuff on your trouser hems. The standard rule is cuffs on pleated pants, no
cuffs on plain fronts.
The End Result
This all may seem overwhelming, but you’re in good hands with a trusted tailor and a knowledgeable store associate. Be sure to go into the process with your preferences in mind—and, as with a car purchase, don’t get talked into anything that makes you uneasy (we’re talking to you, extended warranties). Remember, the fit is your number-one priority. If a suit fits the way it should, you will look sharp and feel good. Have patience with the process, because given the proper care, your suit will outlast most things in your closet. As the old saying goes: The devil is in the details. Fortunately for you, these details have the potential to turn heads more than any sports car ever could. Cheers.
Brooks Brothers Vietnam:
– Ho Chi Minh: L1 – 19 & 20, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, District 1 – ☎ (028) 3939 0477
– Hanoi: 31 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem District – ☎ (024) 3266 8206
